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Replacing Front Brake Pads (cont.)
Installing the New Pads The new set of pads has a few shims that must be lubricated and installed in the proper locations. Apply a thin coat of brake lube to the shims as shown in the illustration at right. The two heavier shims are the Outer Pad Shim and the Inner Pad Shim A. These shims should be lubricated on their inner surface. The thin shim is the Inner Pad Shim A, and it should be lubed on both sides. Next, place the Outer Shim against the outer brake pad and install it in the caliper bracket. Then, place the Inner Pad Shim B against the Inner Pad Shim B, and place them both against the inner brake pad. Install this into the caliper bracket.
Notice that there's a difference between the brake pads. The ones with the wear indicator (see photo at left) go on the inside. It's this wear indicator that scrapes against the rotor when the pads are worn beyond a certain point, making that squealing sound that tells you it's time for new pads. Don't worry about its scoring the rotor—the wear indicator is made of a very soft metal compared with the rotor. When both pad sets have been installed in the caliper bracket, we're ready to reinstall the caliper. With its piston fully retracted, it'll fit over the new pads and onto the caliper bracket. Once it's over the pads, tap it into place until both caliper bolts can be installed. Torque them to 36 ft-lbs.
It's also good practice to bleed the brake at this time. You'll need a helper. Place your 10mm box end wrench on the bleeder fitting, and attach a piece of clear rubber tubing over the bleeder (and the wrench). Fill a small container half full with brake fluid, and place the end of the tube into the container below the level of the fluid. See photo at right. Here's where a helper is needed. Open the bleeder screw and have your helper depress the brake pedal and keep it depressed. The pedal will go all the way to the floor as it pushes the fluid into the container. Then, tighten the bleeder screw and have your helper release the brake pedal. When the fluid enters the container, watch for bubbles. This is trapped air being expelled. Repeat the process (open bleeder, depress pedal, close bleeder, release pedal) until there are no more bubbles. Now you can replace the wheel, put the car back on the ground, and torque the lugnuts (in a criss-cross pattern) to 80 ft-lbs. Before you put everything away, road test the car. And finally... smile at the money you just saved.
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