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Adjusting Your Vigor's Valves (cont.)
Positioning the Engine To adjust the valves for the No. 1 cylinder, rotate the crankshaft until the marks on the camshaft sprocket align with the cutout on the cam holder (more about this below). Use a 19mm socket to turn the pully counter-clockwise. See photo at right. As you rotate the crankshaft, keep an eye on the marks shown in the photo (below right) and the illustration below. In the photo, the yellow arrow on the left points to a notch in the cam holder. The arrow on the right points to a set of marks on the camshaft pulley. There are five sets of marks positioned around the pulley and each set of marks corresponds to a cylinder. The marks are small, so you may have to adjust your eyes and use a flashlight to see them clearly.
The marks are a vertical line (the marker) and a cylinder number and they're spaced at 144° intervals. For each mark, the cylinder number is to the left of the vertical line. Align the vertical line next to the number "1" with the notch on the cam holder. Make sure the marker is lined up with the notch, not the number "1." It's hard to see the difference unless you look closely. You're now ready to measure and adjust the valves for the No. 1 cylinder.
The valve lash for all the intake valves should be 0.010 ± .001". The exhaust valves should all be 0.012 ± .001". To measure them, you'll need a set of blade-type feeler gauges. Select a .010" feeler gauge blade and slide it between the valve stem tip and the rocker arm on one of the intake valves (See photo below, exhaust valve shown). The gauge should drag slightly as you slide it in and out. If you're not sure how much drag is right, try this: The proper sized gauge should fit snugly, but the very next larger size should not fit at all. If this is the case, the lash is correct. Next, do the same for the other intake valve.
Then select a .012" feeler gauge blade and do the same for the exhaust valves of the No. 1 cylinder. If any of the valves have too much or too little clearance, you'll have to adjust those valves so they're within the .001" tolerance. See below. Adjusting the Valve Clearance The actual adjustment is done by turning a small screw that's held in place with a locknut. See photo below. Use a 10mm box-end wrench to loosen the locknut, then turn the screw in to tighten the lash or out to loosen it. Then, tighten the locknut. Measure the clearance again. You'll likely find that tightening the locknut also tightened the clearance, so it'll have to be adjusted again. As you get the hang of it, you'll develop a technique whereby you hold the adjustment with your screwdriver (by "loosening" it) as you tighten the locknut. With a little practice, you'll get a feel for how much to "loosen" the adjusting screw while you tighten the locknut.
When all four valves for the No. 1 cylinder are within specifications, turn the crankshaft 144° counter-clockwise and line up the markers for the No. 2 cylinder. You'll see the "2" next to the alignment mark. When this mark is lined up with the cutout on the cam holder, the No. 2 cylinder is at TDC on its compression stroke. Repeat the measurment and adjustment process. Then, just continue doing the same for the remaining cylinders. As you rotate the crankshaft 144°, read the number marked on the cam pulley and adjust the valves for that cylinder. They'll come up in firing order sequence. Note that in engines with an even number of cylinders (ie., most engines), at least two cylinders will be at TDC at the same time—one will be at TDC on the compression stroke while another is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. In a 5-cylinder engine, no two cylinders will be at TDC at the same time. So to make sure you're working on the proper cylinder, rock the rocker arms back and forth. They should all rock slightly, indicating the lash. No other cylinder will have lash at all rocker arms then, since they'll all be somewhere other than TDC. Putting It All Back Together Putting everything back is pretty straightforward. First, install the valve cover. Make sure the valve cover gasket doesn't slip out of place while you're positioning the cover. If you're replacing the gasket, put a dab of liquid gasket on the flat point at either side of the curved portion, front and back. The last thing is to be careful of the torque on the cap nuts. DO NOT overtighten them or you'll end up with an oil leak at the valve cover gasket. The cap nuts should be torqued to 7 ft-lbs, and that's not much.
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