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A Monthly Article for Vigor Enthusiasts (07/09)

 

Brake Master Cylinder Replacement (Cont.)

View of Bracket Mounting Arrangement

View of Bracket Mounting Arrangement

Third, we will install the new master cylinder.

1. Maneuver the new master cylinder into position. Be careful to make sure the plugs are in place, no fluid is leaking, and no fluid on the car paint. Place the bracket on two threaded studs connecting to the brake booster, and then place the master cylinder on the two studs. (PART #6 in photo at right is one stud.  Other is not in view.) Replace the bolt that holds the bracket to the brake booster. (It screws into threaded hole identified as PART #8)

2. Connect the brake lines (PART #10 and #11 on previous page and PART#11 in photo at right) to the new master cylinder. Fluid should not flow out continuously because the pressure inside the master cylinder is holding the fluid within, so go ahead and remove the plug (maybe place some rags under to catch any residual brake fluid), connect brake lines.

3. Pump the brakes a few times and make sure no fluid is leaking out of the brake lines.

Fourth, brake bleeding.

1. You will need two people. Loosen all 4 wheel lugnuts. Raise the front of the car, place 2 jack stands, lower onto jack stands. Do the same for the rear. USE JACK STANDS! Do not rely the jack on anything except for lifting the car. You do not want to be pinned under the car!

2. Prepare the bleeding apparatus. Aquarium hose with inner diameter of 5/16 seems to work well. Place the hose into a bottle, filled with a little bit of new brake fluid, in case you mess up the bleeding and anything is sucked back in.

3. Go to your right rear wheel. Break loose (don't open it, just make sure it's loose so that you can release it later) the bleeding nut using a 10mm wrench. If it doesn't budge, use PB blaster or similar. You do not want to strip the nut.

4. Place the 10 mm wrench on the nut, place aquarium hose onto the bleeder nipple. Have your helper sit in the car, ready to step on the brake pedal. Open the nut and have your helper slowly push the brake pedal down and keep it down until you close the nut.  This will push out some brake fluid, which will spurt into the bottle of fluid.   Close the nut and have your helper release the brake pedal.  Then, open the nut and repeat the process.   Keep doing this until the brake fluid coming out of your hose is clear or there are no more bubbles, whichever comes last. It is VERY important to make sure that the master cylinder is filled with fluid. When you bleed the brakes, the level will get lower and lower. Remember to refill the fluid, or else the master cylinder might go dry and become damaged—and you will introduce air into your brake's hydraulic system.

5. Repeat step 4 for all four wheels. The order is right rear, left front, left rear, right front.

Place all the wheels back on, tighten slightly with a wrench, let the car down, torque all the lugnuts to ~90 ft-lbs.


DONE! Take a final look in your engine bay, make sure everything is clear and normal, and take your car out for a ride. Go easy on the first few brakings to confirm everything is working as it should.


Once again, Michael, thanks for a great article.

 

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