Timely Topics Archive

A Monthly Article for Vigor Enthusiasts (8/03)


Replacing the Distributor O-Rings


By now, most of us know about the smell of burning oil inside the Vig's passenger compartment. If you smell it, it probably means it's time to replace the O-ring seals in the distributor. Oil seeps past the O-rings, drips on the hot exhaust manifold, burns, and stinks up the car's interior.

This month, our Pet-of-the-Month and resident rocket scientist, Lvmilkman2002, was kind enough to write this article of timely interest to our members. We all know about his wrenching abilities—he's an established first-rank troubleshooter for our club. But he's also one heck of a photographer! He took all the pics included in this article! Unfortunately, the pics had to be reduced in size so the web pages could load more quickly (a consideration for those with dial-up connections). The full-sized originals are stunning photographs! (Sorry about that, Milkman. With full-sized pics, this page would take over eighteen minutes to load with a 56K connection!)

So here we have his technical expertise, his photographic skills, and his way of explaining difficult things so they're understandable to all. Thanks, Milkman, we appreciate this!

"Before you begin, make sure you have two distributor o-rings (222 buna-N) or get them from the dealer Acura #:91305-PN4-003 and a distributor shaft seal.  You should also buy a new distributor cap and rotor…you don’t want to do this again. You will also need a sharpie marker….also if you don’t want to do this again.  Make sure you know your stereo’s security code, because you will be removing the battery. This job is 100 times easier removing the heat shield and battery!!!!  If you are prepared and follow these instructions, this job should take about 1 to 2 hours.

"Here is the list of what you need, other than your tools:

  • 2-Distributor O-rings  These are size 222 Buna-N O-ringsAcura #:91305-PN4-003

  • 1-Distributor shaft seal. The seal is a 12.5mm (ID) x 22.5mm (OD) x 5mm (thickness).

  • 1-Distributor bearing The bearing is a Nachi Honda Spec bore 6001/012LL. Dimensions are12.5mm (ID) x 28mm (OD) x 8mm (thickness).

  • The seal runs $3.59, the bearing $14.50 at www.bearingdepot.com.

  • 1-Distributor cap   Acura#: 30102-PV1-A05

  • 1-Distributor rotor  Acrua#: 30103-PV1-A02

  • 1-Sharpie Marker

  • a small amount of clean motor oil

  • lots of paper towels


"Step One—Remove the battery, and the small heat shield next to the battery.  You will have to remove three bolts from the firewall that hold the wiring harnesses to the firewall.  There are two bolts to remove that hold the heat shield in place. 

Distributor Aea Battery Removed

Distributor Area of Engine Compartment



... With Battery and Heat Shield Removed


"Step Two—Use your marker and from passenger side to drivers side mark the ignition wires on the distributor from one to six…there are six wires because the coil wire is included.  These numbers are just for YOUR reference and are just so you can plug them back in fast without crossing wires. 

"Step Three—Remove the distributor bolts.  There are two of them.  I am NOT talking about the screws that hold the distributor cap to the distributor body.  After removing the bolts, you should be able to gently turn the distributor from side to side to loosen it.  Do not turn it too much.  Place some folded paper towels underneath the distributor because oil is going to leak out..about 2 oz’s of oil.  Gently pull the entire distributor back towards the firewall. You should now have the entire distributor in your hands. 

Distributor Removed

Distributor Removed


"Step Four—Using your sharpie again, mark one of the wings on what the manual calls the “coupler”.  This is the winged piece that fits into the end of the cam shaft, and it is on the other end of the distributor shaft from the distributor rotor.  You need to mark from the center of the shaft, ALL the way out to the end of one of the wings.  Place a mark on the distributor body that coincides with the mark you just made on the coupler (winged piece)….this will tell where the coupler needs to go after replacing the distributor shaft seal…..I did not mark all the way to the center of the shaft and I got “shafted” and had to completely take the unit apart because it was 180 out of sync…Doooohhhhh. 

Distributor With Markings


Distributor With Markings





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