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Timely Topics Archive

A Monthly Article for Vigor Enthusiasts (12/02)

 

Repairing the Vig's Door Lock Actuator (cont.)

Inside of Door
 

Inside of Door

Continuing, Juan writes, "Now that the door panel is off as in the photo, things get rather easy.

"Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four brass hex bolts securing the armrest bracket (brass colored thing in [the photo at right]) to the doorframe. Put it aside and then remove the clear covering that goes around the door."

 

 

 

 

 

 

Switch Connector

Actuator Switch Connector Location

"Underneath the armrest holder lies the main connector for the actuator switch, as seen in (the illustration at right).

"Disconnect this connector and do not be surprised if you find the grease for this connector to be heavily laden with condensation. I actually discovered water droplets in mine."

 

 

 

 

 

 

Connectors
 

Actuator Switch Connectors

 

"Remove the male connector from the door frame by sliding it forwards off its holder (the holder is red).

"Once the main connection is apart as in the photo at right), then it is imperative to remove as much as the old grease from the connector ... the connector looks to be the culprit in oxidizing the actuator connectors.

"I then took my compressor and attempted to blow out all the old grease pushing the air from the back out through the pins. Then I took some GB™ contact cleaner and sprayed it around the female connectors. After five minutes, I then used some compressed air to blow out any remaining grease. Just for good measure I sprayed it again with the contact cleaner.

Pin Removal
 

Pin Removal

 

"Turing my attention to the 3 actuator switch pins, I decided to just douse them with contact cleaner.

"It is feasible to remove the contact pins out of their holder by popping up the locking mechanism as shown in (the photo at right) but you have to take a very small awl or pick and from the front of the connector collapse the little pin holders to slide out the pin itself. This is a more thorough method to clean the pins (you could use sandpaper or a Dremel ™ wire brush to eradicate any oxidation on the connectors."

NOTE: A terminal pin tool, such as the one shown in the first illustration on the preceding page, can also be used.

 

Dab Grease
 

Dab Dielectric Grease into the Connector

 

"Once the contact cleaner has dried, then take either some dielectric grease or some GB ™ contact electrical grease and using a toothpick or other means such as in (the photo at right), dab the grease rather sparingly around both the male and female connectors. Make sure that the female or receiver part receives more attention concerning the use of the grease."

 

 

"Assembly is the reversal of breakdown with a few exceptions. When putting the door panel back on, make sure to start by placing it on the top of the doorframe. Do not forget to put the door lock through (it can be a pain). Once the door panel is flush at the top (it takes some time), then "hit" the panel back into place. When putting the wood trim back on, reconnect the door handle rod to the little purple holder and the door lock electrical connector.

Carefully Bend the Wood Trim

"There is a little silver lip attached to the wood trim that must be place in first at the front of the door panel. Then, bend the wood trim up slightly as shown in (the photo at right) to put it snugly in its holders along the door panel.

Work your way from front to back. Then the 2 brass screws, the cover, the two colored locking inserts and finally the one long Philips head screw. Check to make sure everything works.

"That is it, for this shade tree method has worked for me close to seven months. Not one instance of the alarm going off unwillingly. Good luck to everyone, for this is easy if you just take your time."

—JuanBaldez

 

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